Nudity in Japan

Japan Entry- July 4, 2010

Today we woke up early and headed out to Hakone. Hakone is beautiful. It is a mountain region in Japan, and is filled with lush, green hills of trees. They have set up a sightseeing tour trail that includes buses, trains, a ferry, a cable car, and walking. Albert and Celia had helped us buy tickets and told us some clues about where to go, but it felt as if our whole day was looking at a treasure map trying to make it to a pot of gold. Imagine a map written in a foreign language with some photos to guide you, as well a few people along the way who can understand a bit of what you are saying, but are mostly communicating in pointing and bowing. AND, the trail you are on is incredibly beautiful! It was so fun. We found our way no problem, and even managed to get a few treats on the way.

We had lunch near the train station in Hakone. For me soba noodle soup, and for Pete udon. We then found a place making “#1 cookie in Japan” and bought some that were still warm as snacks for later. We then bought a large rice cracker from a man who was toasting it right on the street. It was so delicious. Finally, we arrived at our hotel- and what a treasure trove it is! It is beautiful. Hakone is known for its onsens, or natural hot water baths. Quite an interesting experience.

When we checked in, we got to choose traditional Japanese robes. We then were told a little about how to take a bath in the public bath. These baths are separated by sex, and we were instructed to change into our robes, and take a basket carrying two towels into the public bath. You then clean yourself and soak in the hot waters. Pete and I disrobed to our robes, and walked over there. We parted ways, and I walked into a dark, clean, calming environment. Women walk from the baths to the lockers naked, getting in and out of the hot springs to move on to the sauna, a cold water bath, or the outdoor area of hot spring. There are separate bathing stalls, where everything you could need is provided for you. You start by putting all your belongings in your locker, expect your two towels (face and body). You then go to a private stall (no door though- so not that private) and clean yourself. After that, you get to dip into the springs! They are literally coming down the mountain into this hot rock, huge tub. You can choose to sit indoor or outdoor.

I tried indoor first. It was so hot, steam was rising. The trickling sound of the water down the rocks and the dim lights, quickly turned that hot water into an incredibly Zen experience. Relaxation came over me, and I couldn’t have felt further from home- both literally, but also figuratively. All the stresses that have been bothering me were no longer reachable. After a while, I tried the outdoor spring. It had started raining, so the heat was cooled by the few cool raindrops that snuck through the wooden roof. Finally, I cooled myself with another bath in the private stall and met Peter out front.

Maybe it is the distance, maybe it is the fact that it is finally sinking in that we are on vacation, or maybe it was the healing waters: whatever it is- I had never felt younger! My skin felt amazing, soft and smooth. Our muscles felt like jello, there was not a trace of tension left in our bodies. We went back to the room and were lulled into an incredible nap by the raindrops.

On a completely separate note: I have been wanting to mention the toilets here. Seats are warmed, and an automatic “strong deodorizer” is activated when you sit down. There are arms to the toilet seat, with picture buttons depicting a bidet, a butt spray, and a “flushing” sound with volume control.