Bullet Train to Kyoto

Our morning started with another dip in the hot springs. I absolutely couldn't resist that feeling of jellowy cleanliness and relaxation. We had a quick breakfast, and then headed to the train station to catch a bullet train to Kyoto.

These trains are no joke. They go speeding by and are so fast it, the pressure almost knocks the wind out of you. Our train was on time to the second, of course, and Pete and I got into our seats and started preparing for the Kyoto leg of our trip. We decided to tackle a few sights near the train before heading up to the hotel. The first was a temple not far from the station called Sanjusangen-do Temple. It is a huge wooden building that houses 1000 golden statues to protect visitors. The shrine is built for a huge golden statue of the Goddess of Mercy (this is the second shrine we have seen to her). It is quite a sight. The surrounding grounds are beautiful, with gardens and ponds and tidbits of history.

We caught a cab to the hotel. We were pretty ravenous, and couldn't resist a pasta dish from our hotel. We then walked to another Temple. This one was completely awesome. We climbed a large hill filled with little shops to get there. I bought a coin purse (with little Asian cats on it), and Pete got a green tea ice cream cone. We arrived to the temple, and almost couldn't believe the beauty of it. The entire shrine is 12 buildings and you walk through paths in the forest to get to them. There is a lot of superstition here, where there are places to make wishes or tell your fortune.

We then wound in and out of the tiny streets of Kyoto. It is an adorable city. You don't know what to expect on each street. It may be Old Kyoto with a glimpse of a geisha, or new Kyoto with hip shops and fashionable kids. The streets are narrow and hilly, so each turn brings a new charming street to explore. Our guidebook recommended a bar in Old Kyoto. We walked many streets lined with wooden buildings and an occasional stream running nearby until we found it. We had an afternoon drink and decided to head out to find a vegetarian dinner spot from the book.

After days of watching Peter struggle to stomach meals out of his comfort zone, I thought it would be nice to find a vegetarian gem for him. The place was described as a "homey feel" that is run by a nun and her mother, who are peace activists, and great vegetarian dinner. Pete and I found the street it was on pretty easily, but roamed and wandered for quite a while before finally spotting a little sign that said "Vegetarian food". The restaurant was back from the street, and when we walked in, you could smell the cats. The place is their home, very unkempt and very decorated with peace signage and cat posters. We were the only patrons. An elderly woman insisted we sit at the far end of the bar, while Pete and I instantly started to think of ways to get out of there. She was very sweet and called her daughter in to take our order. We ordered a ginger ale first and tried to explain we were just there for a refreshment. With their limited English and our very limited Japanese, we were ordering food before we knew it.

Aside from the smell, I have to say it was a great meal. I was served vegetable curry with brown rice, and Pete was given tofu soup (best part of the meal), brown rice, and four vegetable dishes: pickeled eggplant, cucumber salad, something like kimchi, and fried potato spring rolls. The food was quite obviously homemade and very flavorful. We had a few hearty laughs during the process, but decided that at the end of it, it was an experience we will never forget.