It is our second day in Fes, Morocco. We had a relaxed, late start to the day. We had a breakfast of breads, jam, olives, and hard boiled eggs. Then, Sarah and I decided to go shopping. We found some amazing scarves and purses, and reasoned away our guilt by buying enough for most of our friends and family. We wandered and people watched and then met the boys for lunch at a place called Clock Café. We found a covered spot on the roof and enjoyed the good service and good food.
We then met up with a guide to show us around a different part of the Medina. He drove us outside the wall to the other side, and toured us around. He told us interesting facts, talking above children running around and playing, donkeys carrying propane tanks, and stall owners trying to sell their products. As we walked through the thin, curvy alleyways, he explained why the ancient doors have two door knockers: one large and one small. It was because they would sound different, and a stranger would knock the top one and a family member would knock the lower one. Based on the sound of the knock, the woman of the house would know whether or not she needed to cover to answer the door.
We went to an old palace with many doors and corridors to finally walk in to a huge, high ceiling mosaic tiled room. The old Riad is now government owned and used to sell the handmade rugs and carpets of 1,350 divorced women who need work. Some of the rugs have 1 million knots per square meter and take up to four years to make. They are truly stunning. My initial thought was “They shouldn’t waste their time on us. We would never spend that kind of money.” Then, Peter started showing interest and I started loving them more and more. Next thing I know, Ben and Sarah are showing more interest. Shortly after that, we have narrowed it down to our favorite three and I am crawling on each to decide which I like best. After some haggling and joking and charming, we are the proud owners of an authentic Moroccan rug. It is a great wedding gift to ourselves (as if this trip wasn’t enough), and something we will have forever and always remind us of this trip. When we left, I don’t know who was smiling bigger, the shop owner or us.
Ben wanted to see the tannery, so we decided to stop by on our way out of the Medina. It is the oldest and largest tannery in Morocco and they have been using the same technique for 800 years. They walked us to the roof where we could look down on the factory. The process is that the butcher sends the animal hides over (fur still on), which is then soaked in limestone baths with water and pidgeon droppings. Why? Because they cannot use any chemicals in the process. The hides then go into one of three huge “washers” that used to be spun by donkey or mule on treadmill. Now, they use electricity. From there, naked hides are cleaned and dyed with natural products (i.e. indigo, saffron, turmeric, rose, mint, or they leave it natural). Then, artists create their work.
Pete and I needed a new laptop bag and I spotted a purse that I loved. It was a shame that I had already bought a purse just a few hours before, but I loved it. We were lucky enough to be there during the breaking of the fast, and all business stopped and we were privelidged to be invited to the table as they broke their fast. They start with water, fresh squeezed orange and peach juice, dates, nut cookies, and Ramadan cookies (fried dough in honey). They insisted on sharing with us, and we had a lovely time laughing and eating. Then, a young man carried in a huge roasting pan sizzling with two whole fish that had been cooked in spices, olives, tomato and lemon. They pulled out fresh baguettes and everyone dug in. Again, they insisted on sharing with us. It was a special, memorable experience and an example of the hospitality and kindness of the Moroccan people. After a great meal, they gave us great prices and we walked away with both the laptop bag and my new purseJ
We have rented a car and will be taking the scenic mountain route to Marrakesh tomorrow. I stocked up on a variety of olives and we will buy fresh bread and water tomorrow morning.
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