Babymooning in Istanbul, Turkey

stanbul Blog: City of Life

May 5-8, 2011

Arrival Evening

Pete and I decided to take a “babymoon”, as our child-free traveling days are quickly dwindling. As I have wanted to go to Istanbul for a long time, we decided that would be our destination and to invite his parents along.

We arrived on the afternoon of May 5. The initial impression of Istanbul is its beauty, age and size. The drive from the airport takes you along the Bosphorus. The water is bright blue and lined with parks. On the opposite side of the street, you drive past hills covered in old buildings, mosques, some posh new housing, and a bounty of colorful flowers and trees. Peter had been called that morning for a second interview for a job, so he had arranged for them to call the hotel at 4pm. We arrived to the hotel at 3, quickly settled in, and then I met his parents for a cup of coffee while Pete stayed behind in the room. We found a little café across the street that was owned and staffed by a man named Fadi. He was very friendly and told us how he and his family had bought a place in the neighborhood five years ago for 25,000 Turkish Lyra. The economy and tourism has boomed so much in the last five years that it is now worth almost seven times that. He made excellent, strong coffee and served us complimentary homemade sweets that his wife makes.

After Pete’s interview (which went well), we met up and decided to walk the neighborhood. We had heard of a good fish restaurant we decided to go to for dinner. As we wandered the streets, we stumbled onto a small street bazaar. We window shopped the jewelry, leather goods, rugs, purses, ceramics, and evil eye charms. In true babymoon fashion, we bought two handmade glass tile lanterns as night lights for the baby's room. We made it through it and then found ourselves walking curvy, cobblestone hills searching for the restaurant. We finally found it. We had a wonderful meal. We started with the “special” rice, which was rice that was heavily spiced and served with mussels, eggplant puree, chili oil, a green salad, and a seaweed salad. We each had grilled fish or shrimp for dinner, and it was all lovely. We called it an early night as the next day was filled with sightseeing plans.

Day 1

We woke up early and had breakfast at the hotel. It was raining, so we went out each armed with our own umbrellas. It was fun walking in the rain, breathing in the fresh air, and seeing waves of umbrellas and tourists wandering the area. We walked the steep hill up towards our first stop, Haghia Sophia, a huge church that was built in 537AD by the Byzantine emperor Justinian. This seems even more impressive when you walk in and look up at the huge mosaics and domes above, with giant chandeliers suspended from the dome 60 meters overhead. Over the years, Hagia Sofia has bore silent witness to invasion, slaughter, and religious transformations (was converted from a Church to a mosque in the 15^th century before ultimately being turned into a museum in the 20^th century to settle disputes over which faith the holy space should honor). We enjoyed an hour there, before going to the café outside for a coffee.

Once we were sufficiently caffeinated, we trekked up an even bigger hill for our second stop, the Topkapi Palace. This palace housed the sultans during the Ottoman rule. One thing is for sure, the rulers lived in excess. The palace is huge, and is built to snake along the Bosphurus. The museums inside exhibit their bedroom (with a bed that looked like a double king size), their clothing (which again is almost laughably huge and inconceivable that people ever fit in these clothes), and their jewels (we’re talking diamond and emerald encrusted daggers). You can also tour the harem, which at that time housed up to 700 concubines of the sultan. We decided against it and were on our way for lunch; we found a great spot that had women in the front making fresh “crepes” with different fillings such as minced meat, spinach, cheese, or potato.

Next, we went to the Cistern, which from the outside appeared as a small, non-descript, one story cement block building. Once you enter, you go a flight of stairs that leads you to a huge open space that once held the city’s water supply. Built in the 500’s, 336 columns line the cistern, which laid completely forgotten for 1000 years, until a French archaeologist became curious as to why locals would dip buckets into holes in their basements to get water and decided to find out what the water source was. The lighting is dim, and you hear the drip-drip of water from the ceiling.

As we left, Pete and I found a surge of more energy as we walked out into the sunlight. The streets were bustling with locals and tourists alike, buying roasted corn on the cob, picnicking, laughing, and strolling with their children. We decided to make a stop at the Blue Mosque which was quite beautiful, covered in ornate blue tiles and hand stitched carpets.

Pete and I slowly walked home, arms around each other, enjoying the life and energy of Istanbul. We went back to the hotel for a drink on the rooftop terrace that overlooks the Bospherous. We were reminded of what wonderful travel partners we are, and how great it feels to be in a country that is far less conservative than Abu Dhabi.

For dinner, we went to a belly dancing/ musical variety show. The performances were great, with different Turkish traditions over the past 1000 years represented through dance and music. The belly dancers were great, and the crowd (which included a rowdy bunch of Korean senior citizens) was very mixed and a lot of fun.

Day 2: Modern Istanbul

We started the morning by cabbing across the gold horn it to Istiklal street in Modern Istanbul. It is a long, winding street of shops, churches, and private schools. It is not really a street for shopping, more for walking and people watching and getting a sense of the other side of the city. It was mostly locals getting their morning coffee, walking to work, or window shopping. Off the main road there are tons of smaller, interesting looking streets that we will definitely explore on our next trip.

From Istiklal street, we proceeded to the Istanbul Modern, a contemporary art museum. The art varied a great deal in composition, theme, and intensity; I particularly enjoyed an exhibit on feminist art. The museum is right on the water and we enjoyed a lovely Italian lunch on the waterfront, where we saw dolphins jumping gracefully out of the water and seagulls flying low to catch fish, with a steady backdrop of different types of boats: tourist, industrial, private.

After a few hours at the museum, we took the tram back to Sultanamet. Definitely an easy, efficient and cheap way to get around town; something we would take advantage of much more on a return visit. Pete’s parents went back to the hotel to rest, and we entered our own world by exploring Sultanamet arm in arm and people watching. We walked through the park that surrounds the Blue Mosque and were reminded of Central Park with locals picnicking on blankets, kids running around, locals trying to sell maps, postcards, and guidebooks to tourists, and a street performance that people were gathered around watching. We then got purposefully lost by walking random streets chosen only on the basis of which looked most interesting. It was so lovely, and I feel so at home, right next to Pete, taking it all in and laughing and joking together. It was really what vacations should be all about: reconnecting with your loved ones in fun, anonymous exploration in a new place, while disconnecting from any stress or responsibility at home. We had a very low key dinner that night with his parents, and fell asleep early.

Day 3: Last Day

We woke up early and had breakfast and coffee with Pete’s parents. We thought we would finish the morning at the coffee shop we had visited on our arrival evening, but it didn’t open until 10. So, we went back to our rooms and packed up before heading over. We enjoyed a nice coffee and conversation regarding Middle Eastern history and culture, and why it is so difficult for this region to make progress (we seemed to think it was because of a lack of judicial system that is fair to all and that people can trust). Then, Pete’s parents were off to the airport, and P and B were back on their way to city exploration.

We decided just to walk and explore. On a hill, Pete saw a man who seemed to be a shoe shiner. Pete decided to get his old, brown leather shoes shined. We sat with this older man who was under a small, tent with random shoes and trinkets for sale. He spoke no English, but smiled as he took Pete’s shoes and offered us a seat on plastic stools. We sat and watched as this man produced miracle on Peter’s shoes. They ended up looking brand new. As Peter admired them before putting them back on, the man smiled ear to ear. He then noticed my belly and was very happy. Through sign and body language, we said yes we were married and having a baby. He told us he had six children and gave me a small, colorful purse as a gift. We paid and tipped nicely, and were so happy to see the pride this man had in his job and his kids.

We then continued our walk looking for a place to sit down lunch. We walked past several outdoor eating areas before deciding on one that flanked the park. Pete enjoyed a cold beer while we basked in the sun and had a great Turkish meal. It was a long lunch with appetizers (stuffed peppers, grape leaves, and onion rings), main dishes (both baked eggplant dishes) and dessert (baklava and coffee). We talked with optimism about our next move together, hopefully to Barcelona, and what it would be like to raise our little baby there.

After that, we went to the Archeology Museum. It was great! They have a wealth of artifacts, the best for us was the stunning Alexander Sarcophagus.

We headed back to our hotel and remembered that that morning we had walked by a hamam that offered massage. We decided to go for it after all the walking we had done that weekend. On arrival, it seemed to be a seedy establishment. Pete was escorted into a room and came out wrapped in a white and red towel. I was only having a foot rub, and we were walked upstairs to the massage beds. Pete had a back rub, and a woman gave me a foot and calf massage. When mine was finished, I got up, but she insisted I lay down and brought me an extra pillow and signed for me to sleep. As I laid back down, she gently pulled my sweater over me and smiled. I gladly slept through the end of Pete’s massage before we headed downstairs for tea. By this time, it was time to head across the street to the hotel for our airport pick up.

One thing we noticed was how much Turks seem to favor pregnant women. As I am very visibly showing, we received gifts of trinkets to ward off the evil eye and small purses at different shops. People would stop to let me pass them, I was picked out of a line of 20 women waiting to use a bathroom (many which were decades older than me) to use the handicapped bathroom, people were not shy to touch my belly and guess the baby’s gender (as usual, most people guess a boy), and on Mother’s Day, strangers and shop owners wished me a “Happy Mother’s Day”.

Overall, it was a great trip. The backdrop for the city (being situated on two continents divided by the beautiful Marmara Sea) lends to its mystique and beauty. Turks are very evidently proud of their heritage and culture, and are very unique looking. They don’t seem to be overtly friendly, but warm underneath and welcoming. We cannot wait to go back, not only to Istanbul, but also to explore the rest of Turkey as well.

Fes, Morocco: It’s a Buyers Market

It is our second day in Fes, Morocco. We had a relaxed, late start to the day. We had a breakfast of breads, jam, olives, and hard boiled eggs. Then, Sarah and I decided to go shopping. We found some amazing scarves and purses, and reasoned away our guilt by buying enough for most of our friends and family. We wandered and people watched and then met the boys for lunch at a place called Clock Café. We found a covered spot on the roof and enjoyed the good service and good food.

We then met up with a guide to show us around a different part of the Medina. He drove us outside the wall to the other side, and toured us around. He told us interesting facts, talking above children running around and playing, donkeys carrying propane tanks, and stall owners trying to sell their products. As we walked through the thin, curvy alleyways, he explained why the ancient doors have two door knockers: one large and one small. It was because they would sound different, and a stranger would knock the top one and a family member would knock the lower one. Based on the sound of the knock, the woman of the house would know whether or not she needed to cover to answer the door.

We went to an old palace with many doors and corridors to finally walk in to a huge, high ceiling mosaic tiled room. The old Riad is now government owned and used to sell the handmade rugs and carpets of 1,350 divorced women who need work. Some of the rugs have 1 million knots per square meter and take up to four years to make. They are truly stunning. My initial thought was “They shouldn’t waste their time on us. We would never spend that kind of money.” Then, Peter started showing interest and I started loving them more and more. Next thing I know, Ben and Sarah are showing more interest. Shortly after that, we have narrowed it down to our favorite three and I am crawling on each to decide which I like best. After some haggling and joking and charming, we are the proud owners of an authentic Moroccan rug. It is a great wedding gift to ourselves (as if this trip wasn’t enough), and something we will have forever and always remind us of this trip. When we left, I don’t know who was smiling bigger, the shop owner or us.

Ben wanted to see the tannery, so we decided to stop by on our way out of the Medina. It is the oldest and largest tannery in Morocco and they have been using the same technique for 800 years. They walked us to the roof where we could look down on the factory. The process is that the butcher sends the animal hides over (fur still on), which is then soaked in limestone baths with water and pidgeon droppings. Why? Because they cannot use any chemicals in the process. The hides then go into one of three huge “washers” that used to be spun by donkey or mule on treadmill. Now, they use electricity. From there, naked hides are cleaned and dyed with natural products (i.e. indigo, saffron, turmeric, rose, mint, or they leave it natural). Then, artists create their work.

Pete and I needed a new laptop bag and I spotted a purse that I loved. It was a shame that I had already bought a purse just a few hours before, but I loved it. We were lucky enough to be there during the breaking of the fast, and all business stopped and we were privelidged to be invited to the table as they broke their fast. They start with water, fresh squeezed orange and peach juice, dates, nut cookies, and Ramadan cookies (fried dough in honey). They insisted on sharing with us, and we had a lovely time laughing and eating. Then, a young man carried in a huge roasting pan sizzling with two whole fish that had been cooked in spices, olives, tomato and lemon. They pulled out fresh baguettes and everyone dug in. Again, they insisted on sharing with us. It was a special, memorable experience and an example of the hospitality and kindness of the Moroccan people. After a great meal, they gave us great prices and we walked away with both the laptop bag and my new purseJ

We have rented a car and will be taking the scenic mountain route to Marrakesh tomorrow. I stocked up on a variety of olives and we will buy fresh bread and water tomorrow morning.

Morocco: Pain and then Healing

After an unexpected and uncommunicated time change to our flight, we arrived to the airport in Cairo just 20 minutes before our flight was supposed to take off. After being ignored and avoided by airport security, Pete and Ben demanded to see someone in charge and were taken up to an office of the airline. After evidence that our confirmation from last week said the flight was 8:30 not 7:30, they arranged for us to fly a different airline out to Morocco that night. So, us girls spent the day reading and resting at a nearby hotel, while the boys had to run all over Cairo and back to get paper tickets.

It was an uneventful flight and we arrived in Casablanca late last night. It was cool and breezy and clean and modern, and there was no crazy driving and it was a very welcome change. We arrived at our quaint, cute hotel around midnight and went upstairs to freshen up and get dinner. There was the unfortunate event of me slipping out of the shower and landing on my back. I was able to get it together and head out for dinner. We walked the safe downtown area, and were pleasantly surprised as two different locals offered to walk us to a good restaurant without asking for money. The first was closed, and the second was a little hole in the wall roteserrie. We ordered chicken sandwiches which came on great French bread with spicy mustard and green olives, and French fries. It was very good and satisfying and less than $3 a couple!

We woke early to catch the train to Fes. I was really feeling the pain from the fall in my shoulders and back, and took some Motrin to get me through. The train ride was great, going up into the mountains and offering views of surrounding farmland and crops. We arrived at Fes with no problem and were taken to our hotel. Our hotel is in the Medina here, which is the oldest medieval city in the world. It is a walled off area of the city that has 2,900 alleys and walkways. Many of them are only navigable by foot and lined with different shops and stalls serving spices, clothes, purses, and shoes.

I decided to take a Vicodin to ease the pain that kept getting worse, and we were off. We stopped at a Moroccon place for lunch and had a great meal. We started with traditional Moroccan soup, a chicken/tomato based broth with small noodles and chickpeas. I then had a vegetarian tagine, which is named after the vessel they cook it in. About halfway through the meal, I started feeling dizzy and weightless because of the Vicodin. I was having a pretty good time, but trying to eat plenty to lessen the buzz. After the meal while waiting for coffee, I became pale, sweaty and nauseous. Pete led me up the small, windy staircase to the disgusting squat toilet to puke. My wonderful husband held me steady and I felt instantly better. After some mint tea I was back in business and we were on our way.

We spent the day exploring streets, shopping with success (Pete got a hat and I got two new pairs of leather sandals), and commenting on how this little medina and the people that walk the streets could be straight out of a movie. Almost every person you see is picture worthy. We took lots of photos, got lost (which is almost inevitable) and were led to a spice/medicine man.

It is a father and son, the father is an herbalist and his son sells the spices. They were nice and gave us their schpeal, as well as some free samples (we snorted Nigella seed which is supposed to be great for the sinuses and actually worked), and I asked him what to take for headaches. He asked me some questions about my headaches, and then laid his hands around my head and told me to tell him “when you feel it”. I waited and his very presence made me feel calm. Sure enough, after a few minutes, I felt “it”. All the sudden, I felt a lightness and openness to my head that I haven’t felt in a good two weeks (I’ve been having pretty bad sinus headaches with the dust and climate change). He then rubbed some oil on my forehead and temples. Next, I told him I fell yesterday and was having lots of backpain (I am off using Vicodin at this point). So, he did the same healing technique to my back which did give temporary relief. He gave us a bottle of oil to rub into my muscle that smells like BenGay and he says will lessen the pain. It was a great experience, and as a health practitioner, something very cool to witness.

We then headed into the City Center of Fes, outside the Medina. Cute, bustling, with great restuarants. We found a pizza joint and called it an early night.

Cairo: That’s it! I’m in Love.

Finally, we had a day to sleep in. We got a wake up call just to indulge in the amazing buffet breakfast offered at the hotel. We stuffed ourselves, and after some deliberation decided we would use the heat hours of the day to do laundry, pack, lay by the pool, and recharge for our trip to Morocco tomorrow.

We called Fahad and met him at 5pm at the market. He was two hours away from breaking his fast, and he looked tired, thirsty and hungry. He led us to the top of a hill to watch the sunset. We had an hour to relax, escape from the noise of the city, and watch as locals gathered with food to watch the sunset and break their fast. It was a beautiful sunset, and a cool experience to witness a breaking of the fast. We then walked through a neighborhood and Fahd flagged down a minivan (which doubles as a form of public transportation here) and we all climbed in. The locals were certainly entertained as we all climbed in and held on for our lives as the young driver went so fast he succeeded in obtaining some G force while going over a hill. He then stopped and we all got out.

Fahd led us to several mosques and back through the market. We bought some sandals from a leather shoemaker, and ate whole wheat pita bread fresh out of the fire oven. We walked down the Red Blood Street (now just called Red Street) which obtained it’s name from the blood that flowed through the streets after Mohammad Ali fooled the Mamlouks into his Castle with food and drinks and then ordered them all killed, 500 or so to be exact. With this move, he won the trust and loyalty and gratitude of the Egyptians by freeing them from the oppressive life under Mamlouk control.

We crossed a street, turned a corner, and were surrounded by tourists. This part of Islamic Cairo is stunning! The streets are better maintained and cleaner, and the surrounding buildings are truly indescribable. Children are running around playing on the grounds of castles, mosques, and other buildings that are 1200 years old. Street vendors offer prune juice, tea and coffee, fresh fruit, sweets, grilled eggplant and fried potatoes. Motorcycles speed through, honking their horns and smiling as they nearly hit you. With every corner turned, it is a new atmosphere and adventure. The experience was unforgettable and so lovely that I can say we will definitely visit Egypt again.

Cairo, “This city has a pulse!”

We woke early and learned AGAIN, the hard way, that most Egyptians will do just about anything to screw us out of money. Our hotel hired car convinced us to take stop by a stable and take camels or horses to tour the Pyramids. We agreed, meaning we paid him quite a bit of money just to take us to and from the stable. Oh well, lesson learned, and for all of you, if you ever visit Egypt (which you should), please contact us first for some tips.

We hired two camels and two horses, and were accompanied by a tour guide and two teens to help with the animals. We went in a back entrance and climbed a tall hill that overlooked Cairo and the pyramids. Seeing the Pyramids is quite the difficult experience to put into words. Two thoughts come to mind: 1- it is surreal being so close to something so famous and old, 2- the vanity of these phaorohs to spend so much money is such a poor country to house their dead boides in unbelievable. We paid the “government official”20 Egyptian pounds each (less than 4 dollars) to enter an excavation site that was just discovered one year ago. We got to climb in a tomb with Cleopatra heirioglyphics on the wall, a child’s tomb, and see the opening to underground passageways that led to the large pyramids, and learn about the mummification process. We then went to the Sphynx, which was the least impressive to me. Finally, our guide took the reins of my horse and raced us through the desert. It was so exhilarating!

Interesting facts we learned:

-Each of the three large pyramids took 30 years to build.

-After the inside of each was built, the workers who designed it were killed in order to ensure that no one could come back and steal the bodies or the gold.

On the walk back to the stables, a man on a horse came to bother us. Our guide tried to whip his horse to get him to run away, and in the narrow alleyway, I received a whip to the left calf. After we finally made it back to the stable, the owner invited us in for air conditioning. We went into a dark building, and he led us to the back to smell perfumes his family has been making for generations. They did smell good, and were unique, so we bought some. We were then dropped at the Egyptian Museum to wander and look at tons of amazing artifacts and artwork housed in a rundown building with poor lighting and no a/c.

Our time here just kept getting better. In the evening, we decided to walk to Islamic Cairo. After one too many turns down a dark street filled with glaring men, and realizing that we may have misjudged the distance, we got in a cab and were dropped off on a corner. A nice man approached us and started talking with Pete in Arabic. He recommended a few places and said goodbye. As we continued walking, Pete stopped to get some Arabic sweets and he approached us again. Before we knew it, we were experiencing the tour of a lifetime! Fahd, our impromptu guide, gave us an insiders look at the Market.

The Islamic Cairo Market is unbelievable! It engages all the senses. You walk along these crowded, narrow, cobblestone streets. People, motorcycles, and cars whiz past you. With every turn you are confronted with a new palate of colors, new whiffs of food or gasoline or body odor, and new sounds of either Arabic music, mosque sounds, or people selling their goods. We were lucky enough to be approached by a nice, honest man who lives in the area and showed us around. I can say with certainty that we had a truly unique, rare tourist experience at the Khal-al Khallili Market. First, we went to a 200 year old stand that makes the traditional Fes hats (the red dome hats). We saw how they make them and shape them with a very hot, old iron machine. We were led to an herbal doctor who sells different teas and spices for every ailment. We drank tea, sniffed and tasted a variety of herbs, and ended up buying saffron and an herb for tea that is used to improve memory and prevent Alzheimers. We were led through a dark building to a staircase that led to a famous papyrus paper store and window shopped the amazing artwork.

We finished dinner at an air conditioned Indian/Egyptian restaurant which had the slowest service, but good food. We went home tired, full, and excited for the next day.